DAY 1: CHIANG MAI - PAI (128 kms.)
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The drive begins with the fast main highway as far as Mae Malai (KM.36).
Unless you visit the Mae Sa Valley (recommended if renting for one
day only), or go on a slower alternative route, the interesting part
of the journey really begins once you leave Mae Malai on the highway
to Pai.
From Mae Malai the road passes lowland villages and orchards, and
you can visit the lovely rural temple of Wat Tha Kham (KM.10 left
turn [south] on sealed road 1.5 kms.) and the popular Mok Fa waterfall
(KM.18.Left turn [south] 1.5 kms.). After 20 kilometres the first
set of switch-backs takes the route to a height of about 700 metres
and to a series of upland valleys. Lisu and Hmong hill tribe villages
occupy the uplands, while Karen villages are found lower down.
The higher hills, which rise to between 1200 and 1400 metres, are
often hidden from the road. Dirt roads link villages all over these
hills, but if you wish to stretch your legs you can take a steep uphill
hike (about 20 minutes) to the Lisu village of Mae Sa from the forestry
station at KM.52 (N.B. You can drive into Lisu villages easily on
day 2.)
The road reaches a height of 1350 metres between KM 60-70 on the watershed
between the River Pai, which drains into the Gulf of Martaban via
the Salween, and the River Mae Taeng, which drains into the Gulf of
Thailand via the Ping. On this high ground side trip 3 takes you to
the viewpoint at Huai Nam Dang, which is famous for its view over
the Mae Taeng Valley towards Chiang Dao mountain.
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Numerous
switch backs take the road to the floor of the River Pai valley
at KM.85 and the twelve kilometre run to the town of Pai.
Pai
This
small wooden town (pop. circa 15,000) is mostly Shan, some of whom
are Muslim. The road to the town was first built by the Japanese in
the Second War in their push to Burma. Pai has long been popular with
backpackers and has plenty of cheap guest houses and restaurants.
Around Pai
Visiting the hot springs, taking an elephant ride, or going on a two
hour walk to the Mae Yen Falls are among the possibilities. A short
drive past the hospital goes to a Haw Chinese (Kuomintang) and a Lisu
village, from where a dirt road leads to Mo Paeng Falls (also reached
by concrete road H1095 KM.101. 5 kms.). A longer dirt-road drive goes
to the Karen village of Muang Noi (35 kms.), but for anywhere else,
you should get advice and take a guide.
DAY 1: SIDE TRIPS
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ST1 The Mae Sa Valley and Samoeng
(From Key Point 2. KM.17. Left [west turn] 38 kms to Samoeng. Time:
Min 120 min. Allow 4 hours if taking an elephant ride.)
The upland valley of the Mae Sa is 700 metres in altitude, making
it a prime location for resorts near Chiang Mai. The Regent Resort,
Chiang Mai, is the best in Northern Thailand, and the Pong Yaeng
Garden Village has a lovely setting. Major attractions include the
orchid farms (try the Sainumphung or Mae Ram Orchid Farms), the
Mae Sa Falls, the Queen Sirikit Botanical Gardens (under development)
and the elephant camps (NB. Elephant rides are also available in
Pai). The road passes into the Samoeng Valley at KM.23, from where
there are spectacular views west. Dirt roads lead to Hmong villages
in the hills of the Doi Suthep-Pui National range that surround
the Mae Sa Valley. The small market town of Samoeng lies in a narrow
valley with pleasing rural scenery.
ST2 Pong Duet Hot Springs
(KM.42. Right turn [north 4WD] 6 kms. 90 min)
A delightful park offers walks, small pools for bathing and a sala,
where snacks and drinks are sold.
ST3 Huai Nam Dang National Park
(KM.65. Right turn [north]. Asphalt 6 kms. 60 min.)
A 1600 metre viewpoint best at sunrise in the cold season.
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