DAY 2: PAI - MAE HONG SON (109 kms.)
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The road from Pai begins to climb after KM.110. Lisu women and
men can be seen working the slopes by the road, which was only
sealed in the late 1980's. Views near the pass are excellent,
and you can take a short walk up the trail leading from the car
park.
Passing Nam Rin Lisu village at KM.32, the road follows narrow
valleys to the small district town of Soppong. The turn off to
Tham Lot cave is just past the KM.141 stone. In Soppong the best
accommodation is at The Jungle Guest House, which has a fine restaurant.
After Soppong some breathtaking scenery can be enjoyed by taking
the side trip at KM.152 to the Shan town of Mae Lan Na. H1095
reaches one of the best viewpoints on the whole route, before
dropping into the River Khong Valley and continuing on a twisting
route over low passes and narrow valleys.
An opportunity to take a short break occurs at a forest park where
local families bring their children to feed the blue carp at 'fish
cave'. An alternative route at KM.192 gives access to two side-trips
that include a self-drive route to one of the Padaung villages.
Mae Hong Son
Known
as the city of three mists, a settlement started here around 1831
as an elephant corral, and grew as Shan farmers and Yunnanese
traders settled there. It became a city in 1871 and was hastily
made into a Siamese province in 1893 due to threats from the British,
who had annexed the nearby Shan State of Burma. The first road
to connect to it was engineered by the Japanese in the push into
Burma during the Second World War, and the southern route via
Mae Sariang was sealed in the early 70's. The town has only recently
developed as a thriving tourist centre, modernising in the process.
The area around Chong Kham (pronounced something like 'Jong Kum')
lake, however, retains its original charm. The town is famous
for the Poi San Long festival held in March or May, when a very
colourful parade of 'crystal sons' goes round the Chong Kham lake
and back to Wat Hua Wiang. The 'Hae Chong Phara' festival in the
11th lunar month and Loi Krathong (November) are also very colourful.
Around Mae Hong Son
The mountains are the reserve of the Karen, the main hill tribe
to be found in this area. To see the Padaung (Long Neck Karen)
you can take ST7, or go on a long tail boat ride to the Burmese
border (the landing is reached by turning right [west] after passing
KM.265 and going almost 3 kms. to the village of Huai Dua. 400
Baht for one boat and 250 Baht per visitor to the Padaung. 3 hrs.).
DAY 2: SIDE TRIPS
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ST4 Tham Lot
(KM.141. right turn [north]. Concrete 7 kms. + Dirt 2 kms . 3 hours
or longer if planning a stop at Cave Lodge.)
Turn right off the concrete road at the village of Ban Tham Lot
(7 kms.) onto the dirt road which continues 1 km. to Tham Lot National
Park, where villagers with lanterns (100 baht) and rafts (100 baht)
to the 'coffin' in cavern 3 await visitors. Cave Lodge has basic
huts and a large wooden hall serving as a restaurant. The Lodge
can provide guides and lots of information about caving, walks and
jeep treks.
ST5 Mae La Na & Chabo
(KM.152. Right turn [north] 2 kms dirt road, 3 kms asphalt. 90 min.)
The road passes the Black Lahu village of Chabo (3.5 kms) before
dropping down to the Shan village of Mae La Na. Just after 4 kms.
a dirt road left goes 21 kms to the Karen village of Pang Kham near
the border with Myanmar. Do not enter in the rainy season and note
any turnings you make. This area is one of the most spectacular
in Northern Thailand, but you must take a guide for dirt road exploration.
ST6. Pha Sua Falls and Mae Aw
(KM.142. Right [north turn]. Asphalt 24 kms., dirt road 6 kms. 3
hrs)
Turn right after 2.2 kms and go straight. You should reach a T junction
with a (good) local restaurant with a 'Food & Drink' sign in English.
Turn right for the Pha Sua Falls and left for Mae Hong Son. The
falls have been spoiled by a hydro-project, but the climb on the
sealed road up to the Hmong village of Ban Na Pa Paek offers great
views and access to a high plateau area used for growing tea (Right
turn for dirt road to Mae Aw. 6 kms.)
ST7
The Padaung or 'Long Necked' Karen
(KM.198.H1095. Right turn [west] and after approx. 600 m. left
turn [south]. 20 kms. Asphalt except for last 2 kms. 150 min)
Follow the signs after Ban Nai Soi (18 kms.) to reach the refugee
village of the Padaung. (Entrance 250 baht/head. Take small
change if planning to buy souvenirs). |
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