DAY 3: MAE HONG SON - MAE SARIANG (164 kms.)
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The road passes a succession of valley settlements (Shan and Karen)
separated by low passes, where the forest closes in to the side of
the road. Start early if you wish to go to the Mae Surin Falls and
reach Mae Sariang in one day.
The improved road allows for a fast journey that passes along narrow
valleys, bypassing the villages. The road climbs low hills seldom
reaching higher than 500 metres. In the rainy season the jungle will
appear verdant, coming right to the edge of the road, but as the cold
season progresses into the dry (February-March), the leaves fall and
the forested slopes appear more barren. At the end of the dry season
( March-April) fires burning off the fallen leaf matter become so
numerous that the sky becomes yellow with smoke, sometimes forcing
the temporary closure of Mae Hong Son airport.
The ranges to the west which flank the River Salween seldom rise higher
than 1300 metres, but dirt roads penetrating these mountains should
be avoided. Security in remote regions near the Burmese border cannot
be guaranteed due to the large influx of poor Karen refugees. The
mountains to the east average between 1500 and 1800 metres and are
best appreciated on ST8 to Meo Microwave.
Khun Yuam (KM.200)
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becomes a high street lined with small shops as it drops down
south through the Shan and Karen town. The best restaurant (Khrua
Pik Mai) is found at the bottom of the hill. Accommodation is
limited, but a night at the Ban Farang Guest House (KM. 200
west side. Tel: 622086) will make the trip to Mae Surin Falls
easier. The lovely Shan temple of Wat To Phae (KM.200. Right
turn [west]. Concrete and asphalt 4 kms.) is famous for a Shan
style tapestry kept in a partitioned room to the left of the
entrance in the main vihara. |
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Mae
Sariang
The wooden buildings along Laeng Phanit Road that parallels the
Mae Nam Yuam river suggest the town may once have been a post in
an overland link between Chiang Mai and the Gulf of Martaban. A
dirt road from Hot was first built there in 1954, and was sealed
in 1960.
Mae Sariang used to benefit from the trade with the independent
Karen before the Burmese army successfully drove the Karen across
the border in early 1996. The road to Mae Sam Laep (46 kms.) on
the Salween has been improved and is the only safe route to the
Salween.
DAY 3 SIDE TRIPS
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ST8
Meo Microwave
(KM. 235. Left turn [east] through boom gate. Asphalt 10 kms to
1470 m. 90 min.)
The narrow, steep road climbs high to a Hmong (Meo) village ( 9
kms.) and a microwave station (1 km.). Superb views, especially
if you walk north from the station.
ST9 Mae Surin National Park
(KM.202. Left turn [east] on H1263.Asphalt approx.10.5 kms. to left
turn [north]. Asphalt 3 kms + graded dirt approx.17 kms. Half day)
The first kilometres on H1263 pass by Karen villages. From the turn
off on H1263 it is 6 kms. to the Hmong village of Ban U-Kho and
an area famous for sunflowers (bua thong ) between October and December.
After the boom gate entrance to the park, turn right then next left
which leads to a car park, from where you walk to the viewpoint.
From the lovely viewpoint over the south facing falls a very steep
track (90 min.) goes down to the base of the falls. Birds, gibbons,
leeches and a very sweaty return climb reward visitors. H1263 provides
an alternative route to Mae Chaem (104 kms), but expect some rough
patches after Ban Huai Bong (55 kms.).
ST10 Ban La Up
(KM.131 Left turn [east]. Asphalt 1 km + graded dirt 24 kms.)
The road gradually climbs to the wealthy Lawa village of Ban La
Up. Much of the population are Christian, so the cloth weaving and
silver beating ceases on Sundays.
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