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DAY 2: LAMPANG - SUKHOTHAI (205 kms.)
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The route
passes into the Yom River Valley and follows it to the northern reaches
of the central plains. There the ancient cities of Sukhothai and Si
Satchanalai flourished prior to the rise of the great Siamese Kingdom
of Ayutthaya.
H11 goes through secondary woodlands and a pass to the Wang Valley,
where you turn off onto H1023 for Wang Chin. The small district town
has one restautant on the river bank as well as some food stalls on
the single high street.
The route to Si Satchanalai follows H1125 along the Yom River and
then takes H1177, joining H101 after 28 kms
Si Satchanalai District town is also known as Hat Sieo, which is famous
for the weave of the people of Lao Phuan descent. Looms can be seen
beneath houses in the nearby villages, especially to the north across
the river. The Sathorn Gold Textile Museum (08:00 - 18:00) provides
an interesting opportunity to appreciate and buy some of the delicate
work. Good restaurants for lunch are available in town.
Study a map of the Si Satchanalai - Sawankhalok and Sukhothai areas
to determine your route and how far you want to go for the day. The
fastest route to the Sukhothai Historical Park is via little used
H1305 and H1113 (approx 52 kms.). the turn off south-west onto H1305
is south of KM.2 on the road that follows the west bank of the Yom
River, but it is unmarked (except for a wooden sign to Si Satchanalai
National Park - the return journey to the park waterfalls is 100 kms.).
H101 is the main route from which side trips may be made to Si Satchanalai
Historical Park (KM.18) and Sawanwaranayok National Museum (Sawankhalok),
but it is more pleasant to take the less busy alternative route on
the west bank of the Yom River. This will enable you to visit the
kiln sites (left side of road after approx. 8 kms.), which are extensions
of the National Museums, and then drive on to the historical park
and southwards.
Si Satchanalai National Park occupies a peaceful site on the banks
of the Yom River, and the nearby Suwanthanas Resort is good for a
meal if not to stay the night. Several local goldsmiths are well-known
for their hand-wrought jewellery.
Si Satchanalai was a provincial centre of the Khmer empire in the
12th century, before becoming a part of the Kingdom of Sukhothai that
King Ramkhamkaeng built up at the end of the 13th century. Thai history
books attribute to this kingdom the foundation of the independent
(from the northern Tai, Khmer and Mon) Siamese Tai kingdoms that evolved
into present day Thailand. At the height of its power the kingdom
directly controlled the western half of the upper Chao Phraya basin
and enjoyed vassal tribute from as far as Pegu in Burma, Luang Prabang
in Laos and Nakhorn Sri Thammarat in the south. After Ramkhamhaeng's
death in 1298, Sukhothai rapidly declined, making way for the growth
of Ayutthaya.
The provincial town of Sawankhalok is smaller than (new) Sukhothai
and seems to have more charm. Both have hotels, but Sukhothai has
more to offer at night.
Monuments and Museums in Sukhothai
Province
The museums (open Wed - Sun: 09:00 - 16:00), historical parks and
nearby temples in Sukhothai Province charge admission fees. If you
plan to visit most of these, you can save by buying a 'total ticket',
which will give you access to all sites in the province within 30
days. There are separate charges for vehicles to enter the Historical
Parks( access to Si Satchanalai Historical Park is on foot only after
17:00 until the park is closed at 19:00. A detailed map is available
at the information centre. For a map of Sukhothai Historical Park,
go to the adjacent National Museum).
The National Museums (at Sawankhalok and Old Sukhothai) and the kiln
site extensions contain Buddha images, pottery, old photos, models
as well as in-depth information about the sites.
Quick Return Routes to Chiang Mai
Sukhothai - Chiang Mai via Thung Saliam, Thoen, Li and Chom Thong.
326 kms.
Take H1113 from Sukhothai Historical Park approx. 29 kms and turn
left (west) onto H1048 and head for Thoen (83 kms) via Thung Saliam
(20 kms). Though sign posts are in Thai only, the road numbers are
clearly marked.
From Thoen you may proceed along H1 and the fastest route to Chiang
Mai (total distance 186 kms), or you may take the less busy route
H106 via Li. This will allow you to return either via Lamphun, visiting
Wat Bang Pang at KM.86 on the way (215 kms), or via Doi Tao using
H1103 in Hod, rejoining the full tour (257 kms - see Day 5).
The first (approx) 30 kms of the H106 to Li has many bends and is
a conduit for slow, heavy trucks carrying lignite. Once past the lignite
mine, the route becomes easy.
DAY 2: SIDE TRIPS
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ST3 Wiang Kosai National Park
(H1023. KM74. North turn 3 kms.)
The park centres on the relatively small Mae Koeng Luang Falls. A
walkway leads up (approx. 300m) to the seventh level of the cascades.
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