Vietnam

From the far north of the country to its southern tip, Vietnam's character changes from cooly temperate to steamy tropical. The visitor can select from the cool wet mountains of Tonkin around Sapa, the old-world flavor of Hanoi, the country's capital, the unspoilt beaches of Danang and Hoi An, or the bustling metropolis of Ho Chi Minh, the country's largest city and commercial center.

But throughout the country, whether north or south, the visitor will witness a single unique and fascinating culture, proudly maintained by a welcoming and beautiful people. Visit Vietnam for unspoilt destinations and lasting memories, and don't be surprised if you'll want to return again and again.

	Getting There		Money
	Visa Requirements		Hanoi, Ho Chi Minh, Sapa
	When to go		Halong Bay, Danang

Smaller, quieter, greener and more dignified than Ho Chi Minh City, the nation's capital Hanoi can sometimes look like a provincial French city. This, like most things in Vietnam, is changing fast as economic restrictions are lifted and old regulations are forgotten. Life (and traffic, unfortunately) is returning to the streets and shopping no longer means a trip to a dreary government department store. Still, the city remains quiet enough for cycling to be the ideal means of getting around, and many hotels and cafes rent bicycles.

Places to visit include the fascinating 11th-century Temple of Literature (site of Vietnam's first University), the 15th-century Old Quarter, some enchanting lakes and temples, and the Mausoleum of Ho Chi Minh.

Budget accommodation can be scarce in Hanoi, especially between June and September, but many people rent rooms and with some searching you should find something. Whatever your budget, you'll pay more for accommodation in Hanoi than elsewhere in the country. Hanoi has plenty of domestic and international air connections, and is connected with Ho Chi Minh City by the Reunification Express. train.

Ho Chi Minh City is the heart and soul of southern Vietnam. It's a bustling, dynamic and industrious center, the largest city, the economic capital and the cultural trendsetter. The streets, where much of the city's life takes place, is a myriad of shops, stalls, stands-on-wheels and vendors selling wares spread out on sidewalks. The city churns, ferments, bubbles and fumes. Yet within the teeming metropolis are the timeless traditions and beauty of an ancient culture. Sights include the Giac Lam Pagoda, the neo-Romanesque Notre Dame Cathedral, Reunification Hall, Cholon market and the former US embassy, scene of such havoc during the 1975 evacuations.

Central Ho Chi Minh City is the place to be on Sunday and holiday nights. The streets are jam-packed with young locals cruising the town on bicycles and motorbikes, out to see and be seen. The Municipal Theatre area is the hub for young hipsters. Entertainment ranges from disco and karaoke in the larger hotels, loud Western music in bars such as the Hard Rock Cafe, dancing at the Rex Hotel or experiencing traditional Vietnamese music at the Conservatory of Music. Most forms of entertainment can be found in downtown Ho Chi Minh City along Mac Thi Buoi Street.

Budget travelers tend to congregate around Pham Ngu Lao Street at the western end of District 1. Cholon has plenty of cheap rooms, but Western backpackers are still rare here. Travelers with a little more cash prefer the more up market hotels concentrated around Dong Khoi Street at the eastern side of District 1. Pham Ngu Lao and De Tham Streets form the axis of Saigon's haven of budget eateries.

Located at an altitude of 1,600 meters in the remote North-Western Highlands, Sapa entrances most visitors. It was built as a hill station for the French in 1922, but went into a long decline from which it has only recently recovered. More and more travelers are braving the bad roads and flocking here for the climate (cold in winter) and to visit the hill tribes (mostly Hmong, Dao and Kinh people) who live in the area. The Saturday market is the best place to buy handicrafts.

Accommodation can be tight, especially on weekends when tour parties visit. Just nine kilometers from Sapa is Fansipan (3,143 meters), which is Vietnam's highest mountain. A hike to the top and back takes about four days, and you'll need a guide and decent equipment, as it is usually wet and cold. You can get to within 30 km of Sapa by train from Hanoi. Once you reach Lao Cai, you'll need to transfer to a local bus.

Magnificent Halong Bay, with its 3000 islands rising from the clear, emerald waters of the Gulf of Tonkin, is one of Vietnam's natural marvels. The tiny islands are dotted with innumerable beaches and grottoes created by the wind and waves. The most impressive of the grottoes is the Hang Dau Go, a huge cave of three chambers. The name Ha Long means 'where the dragon descended into the sea,' and refers to a legend about a dragon who created the bay and islands with its flailing tail. There's even a modern legendary creature, the Tarasque, said to haunt the area.

Taking a tour of the bay is the main activity here. If you want to see a lot, choose a fast boat. If you want a romantic experience but with the risk of getting hardly anywhere, look for one of the old junks. You have to charter the whole boat, but there are usually enough travelers around to make up a party and keep costs down.

The main town in the region is Halong City, which is in two halves, one on the mainland and one on a neighboring island. Halong City West, on the island, is the more scenic. Masochists might try seeing the bay on a day-trip from Hanoi, but most travelers catch the ferry from Hanoi to Haiphong and board another ferry there to Halong City East and spend at least one night here. There are plenty of reasonable hotels, mostly in or near Halong West.

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