Doi
Mae Salong
The
village of Mae Salong, or 'Santikhiri' as it is sometimes
known, is situated on Doi Mae Salong Mountain about 45 km
north of the district of Mae Chan in Chiang Rai province.
At
an elevation of 1,800 m, it is situated on the highest peak
and commands some breathtaking and far-reaching panoramic
views. When the mist comes, the views change dramatically,
especially at sunrise or sunset. The air is crisp, cool and
refreshing all year round and the winter months of November
through February and can be really quite cold.
Often
referred to as 'Little Switzerland' for its unique and enchanting
mountainous scenery, Doi Mae Salong is unlike any other area
anywhere within the country. The area is special not only
for its beautiful alpine-like landscape and climate, but moreover
for it's short, but fascinating history and political development,
as well as it's distinctive and mixed populace.
The
origins of Mae Salong village go back to shortly after the
Chinese revolution in 1949, when renegade KMT (Chinese nationalist)
troops fled to neighbouring Myanmar - and were later forced
to flee into Thailand, where the Thai government allowed them
to stay. The area where the KMT finally took refuge was so
remote and inaccessible it is thought the Thai government
granted them refugee status, with the understanding that they
would assist in policing the area against Communist infiltration.
As a result, most of the villagers today are ethnic Chinese
and direct descendents of the KMT.
Unfortunately,
despite the Thai governments attempts to integrate the Yunnanese
KMT and their families into the Thai nation, the inhabitants
of Mae Salong preferred for many years to engage in the illegal
opium trade, along side the infamous warlord Khun Sa and SUA
(Shan State Army).
Only
in the late 1980's, after Khun Sa was finally routed by the
Thai military - and in effect pushed over the border into
Myanmar, was the government able to make any headway in taming
the region - part of which involved crop substitution plans
and giving the area a brand new name. Santikhiri means 'hill
of peace' and was introduced by the Thai government in an
effort to try and separate the area from its former image
as an established opium zone.
Other
measures were the paving of a new 36 km winding mountain road
that leads to the village from Basang near Mae Chan - which
was previously only accessible by packhorse.
Most
of the inhabitants of Mae Salong still speak Yunnanese, except
for the local hill tribes who are mainly Akha and speak their
own dialect. Consequently a new Thai-elementary school has
also been established, with evening classes in Thai language.
The
crop substitution programs intending to encourage the cultivation
of tea, coffee, corn and fruit trees seem to be successful
- as can be seen from the surrounding fields of corn and tea
and the appearance of such new produce in all the local town
markets. New fruit preserves and tea factories have recently
been set-up. Fruit wines and liquors are also being produced.
Rather ironically, illicit corn whiskey is now being distilled
as an all too obvious alternative to the opium poppy - but
what makes the whiskey so distinctive are the pickled centipedes
that are found in some of the bottles. Another local speciality
is Chinese herbs, which are particularly popular amongst the
Thai and Chinese tourists.
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